These kits came out months ago, but to be perfectly honest, my frustrations with the current state of WordPress and the fact that I can’t embed videos anymore kind of made me forget to post about them here. I’m guessing most of you have seen the three Youtube videos I’ve made about them by now, but here’s a concise version of my thoughts on them.
The Burning Liger itself is a step in the right direction for the Zoids Wild line in any number of ways and I’m really pleased with it.
This isn’t as big of a deal to me as it is to a lot of other older fans, but the Burning Liger (as well as the Xeno Rex, which I already have as I’m writing this, so expect that review soon) has an actual cockpit completely enclosing the pilot. I’ll never be a fan of the ZW pilot figures, but this is pretty cool.
Otherwise I just really appreciate the Burning Liger for its hyper-detailed, mechanical look. It just feels more like a Zoid than almost any of the previous ZW models. I personally liked the bone structure design cues of the ZW kits just fine, but it was also getting kind of repetitive, and this really works for me. There’s also some nice color separation on the legs with the silver pieces that slot into the inside – in my Youtube review, you can hear me talk about how these are probably painted on on the boxart, only to then find that it’s real color separation.
I fudged it a bit with the color levels to make the pictures look good, but I will say that the red looks a lot better in real life than in some of the promo pictures and videos I’ve seen around the usual places. It could definitely do with a wash to bring out the detail more, but it’s definitely not that garish, bright color that it appears to be in some pictures I’ve seen.
Also, here’s a comparison to the Beast Liger, my favorite out of the ZW ligers. I don’t know what it is about the Burning Liger, but it… feels smaller than the others when you see it on its own, but it’s actually more or less the same size.
The Impact Gatling came out simultaneously with the Burning Liger; intially there was also a set containing both, which I ended up getting weeks after I’d already built and reviewed the two separate kits. I’m going to say you should really watch the Youtube review of the gatling because you have to see it in action to appreciate it – it rotates very quickly, at intervals, and can be posed in every direction without affecting the rotating movement. Possibly one of my favorite engineering feats in the history of Zoids and definitely the best gatling gun they’ve ever made.
Not to cast doubt on the classic status of the CP-03 Beam Gatling, of course – that one still looks the best, but let’s be honest – the whole thing with the coil spring driving it never worked all that well. This one may be a bit boxy looking, but we finally have a gatling that works.
And that’s what I’ve got about the Burning Liger and it’s first accessory. I’ll be playing catchup over the next few days because there’s a few other things I have on Youtube that I also want to write about here, and you can also expect reviews of the upcoming Core Drive weapons for the BL and the Xeno Rex.
Well, after two years of me reviewing every single standard Zoids Wild release, the forces of the universe have conspired to give me the rarest item in my entire Zoids collection. This kit from one of Corocoro Magazine’s silver peel promo campaigns is limited to a measly 100 pieces and basically impossible to find, but… I got me one.
As usual, I did an extensive video review, which you can check out here, since WordPress no longer allows me to embed videos.
For those not in the know, Corocoro is a manga magazine in Japan, and they regularly do promo campaings for Zoids (and, I assume, for other toylines) with these “silver peel” cards that are basically like scratchoffs. You complete some specific challenge, send it in if you get it right, and then they randomly select 100 winners to get add-on parts allowing you to build a color variant of a Zoid.
So these are super-rare as it is, plus they’re only available in Japan. Since color variants don’t really mean much to me as the proprietor of an airbrush and several jars of paint, I’ve never bothered to pursue these variants because their scarcity just makes everything to do with getting them frankly insane, and I already spend way, way, way too much on this hobby in general and my Zoids collection in particular.
Until the Zero Grizis Dark Form came along. Because look.
The regular Zero Grizis is already one of my favorite Zoids ever, but if I ever had one issue with it, it’s the fact that the majority of it is made up of silver metallic plastic, which is never a good idea, and it really kind of clashes with the gunmetal and especially the light grey parts on the Zoid. Not so the Dark Form version.
Honestly, it was love at first sight. I saw pictures of this version and I thought, man, this is what this Zoid should look like. Color variants are usually just fun because of how they deviate from an established color scheme, like the reverse colors of the Bloody Deathsaurer, but this looks like the definitive version of the Zero Grizis, and the regular version is the deviation.
I really wonder if this wasn’t originally meant to be the standard color scheme and then there was some last-minute design change. Everything fits together much better on the Dark Form version, it just clicks visually.
So I guess what I’m saying is, if you’re in a position to get this one, you really should try to get your hands on it because it’s fantastic. Failing that, though, just get a regular Grizis and paint all the silver pieces black. That’s the only difference – the Corocoro version is just a bag full of black parts, as you can see on this leaflet that comes with it.
I assume all the Corocoro kits come with a leaflet like this. On the left it says “Zero Grizis” in katakana, the kanji means “Dark Form”, and the katakana underneath says “armor parts kit” in the usual strange mashup of English and Japanese for no reason.
Anyway, if you’re going to paint your Grizis black, unless you’re like me and have to weather everything, I’d recommend gloss or at least semi-gloss black. The only minor issue with the black color is that the detail doesn’t pop as much, and using a glossy paint will help a bit with that.
Well, and there you have it. Before I go, here are the photos I took for the YouTube review.
So after mucking about with the new editor interface, it seems to me like at least picture uploads are now working again. When I tried this ten days ago, I couldn’t get it to work, which led to the blog post announcing The Death of RoboShop™ or rather my complete migration to Youtube, which a lot of you probably thought was coming anyway. And by a lot of you I mean both of you.
Anyway, just so we’re clear here, all is still not well. Given the, let’s say, symbiotic relationship between this blog and my Youtube channel, the fact that I can’t embed videos here anymore is a pretty major blow, and there’s no way I’m going to pay for a “business plan” unless my Patreon suddenly starts blowing up, and it’s in no danger of doing that anytime soon. I’m sorry, but I’d like to spend my disposable income on my hobby, not on talking about my hobby. And as you all know, it’s not a cheap hobby.
There’s also the fact that that the theme I’ve been using ever since I started this blog back in 2017 has been semi-broken for a while now, I’m getting nonsensical error messages telling me I’m “not allowed to edit this post” as I’m typing this, and my notifications haven’t loaded for months. If you’ve posted a comment and I never replied, the latter is why. I found some comments from literally months ago that I only just replied to this week, and I really don’t like when technical issues make me look like a jerk who ignores people. I read all of my comments and I respond to everything, especially if people have questions. If you haven’t heard from me, it’s because WordPress sucks now, and I’m really sorry.
Also, the new interface is just a fucking mess. The editor itself has been updated, I guess to make it look cleaner, but all they’ve done is make things harder to find by hiding it behind clickable icons that look real fashionable and cool, but are about as intuitive as driving your car in reverse with your feet on the wheel, and if you click on enough things, you’re suddenly back at old sections that apparently haven’t been updated and look totally different from the new parts. Categories are also gone, so I don’t know why I can still have that as a widget.
This shit’s still broken, it’s just not broken to the point where I can’t use it, and I’ve got almost 4 years’ worth of content here that I don’t want to abandon.
So unless this post doesn’t go through, which is absolutely a possibility as I’m writing this because that error message keeps popping up, I’ll be back to normal, albeit with gritted teeth and shaking my fist at the screen. The next post will be a quick review of the Corocoro 100 Zero Grizis Dark Form. Wish me luck, folks.
Update – Much to the surprise of no one sitting in front of this computer right now, I could not, in fact, publish this post, or save it as a draft. Or actually, it saved the first two paragraphs and then stopped. So I copied everything into a text file, logged out of WordPress and back in, then copied everything from the text file back into the editor, and now it works. My notifications are also loading again. So logging out and back in seems to fix some of the issues, at least. I’m totally leaving this blog unedited with this update at the bottom, though, because I want everyone to see how fucking annoying this is.
Update 2 – Also, everything is super fucking slow now.
Yeah, sorry folks, but WordPress basically broke their website, and I can’t be bothered to deal with it. I can’t embed Youtube videos anymore, and apparently it also won’t let me upload pictures. Plus everything is slow and I keep getting random error messages. Check me out on Youtube if you want to see my latest stuff, and maybe I’ll come back here when they get their shit together.
So with this being basically the most anticipated kit in the entire Zoids Wild line, I decided to make two videos. One is my usual unboxing and review:
The other is a montage of me building it:
I did this mostly because the Zero Grizis is far and away the most interesting build in the Zoids Wild line so far – it has a ton of parts and because the Zero Blast mode basically involves the Zoid’s entire body, you end up building a lot of the internal mechanics that drive its movement.
I’ll also say that this is very easily my favorite Zoid since, well, before Zoids Wild. I figured I was going to at least have some appreciation for it because it’s a Godzilla type, but it easily surpassed my expectations. It looks really, really cool and everything about it works fantastically well. Get yours while you can – I bought three.
It’s summer, so I have more time on my hands to do model kittening, and that means more output here and on Youtube. And then there’s also the whole Coronavirus situation, obviously, and at the very start of that, I thought about whether I could do something to keep people entertained. I ended up cracking one of my NJR Madthunder boxes open and building the whole thing on camera. I also meant to write a blog post about it because Madthunder is my favorite Zoid of all time, but that somehow never materialized. Anyway, here’s the video.
And more recently, I decided to build the Anime 10th Edition Shield Liger that I have for… some reason I can’t even remember. I honestly don’t know when, where and why I bought this thing. But anyway, here it is.
Like I say towards the end of the Shield Liger video, I’m thinking I might do more of this sort of thing in the future, especially on Youtube. There’s really basically no content on there about Tomy Zoids pre-Zoids Wild, and given my extensive collection, I really feel like I should do something about that.
Full disclosure – the Force Impulse Gundam is a suit that I really don’t know the first thing about. Both of my regular readers will know that I generally don’t watch much Gundam anime and so I say this about a lot of kits, but with this one, I didn’t even know it existed until the RG came out, and I just bought it because I like Real Grades and I thought it looked cool.
I also reviewed this kit on Youtube, you can scroll to the bottom to check that out. Anyway, as usual, let’s start with a look at what’s in the box.
Notice, of course, the B sprue center left. There are exactly two parts here – one goes inside the Core Splendor and the other one inside the chest. Honestly, I’m not sure these are even necessary, at this point it feels like they’re just including them because it’s a Real Grade and it has to have them.
The build starts with the Core Splendor, which is what the core fighter’s called on this suit for some reason.
It does look rather splendid, though. Probably my favorite core fighter that I’ve built thus far. Too bad you’ll never get to see it again. More on that later.
The build continues with the chest, which is assembled in two main steps. first is this section, which is basically a few armor bits mounted on top of the aforementioned B part.
Then you continue with the shoulder joints, which are fairly complex because they’re needed for a transformation, as well as the bottom half of the armor, basically.
You then assemble the arms. Pretty standard stuff, but I will say it’s nice that the shoulder armor attaches directly to the top of the arms. This has been the case in the RG line for a while now, but the way the shoulder armor mounts on top of the arm attachment peg on the older kits is a pet peeve of mine that I’m going to need another few years of therapy to get over.
Next is the head. As you can see, I needed to paint the cameras because they’re clear plastic and the kit comes with stickers for them. I really don’t understand why they keep doing this. Other than that, though, I will say that it’s a very nice looking head and assembly is mostly painless. You know how that can be an issue on these RGs where the parts are half the size of a grain of sand.
With the head assembled, you’ve got an upper torso ready for transformification, but you need some accessories first.
Namely the rifle…
…and the shield. This is a particularly nice shield, and it may or may not have been one of the reasons I bought this kit in the first place. What can I say, I’m a sucker for a good Gundam shield.
Now for that transformation. You basically dislocate the suit’s shoulders and twist the arms into position to turn it into what is apparently called the Chest Flyer. The only other step this involves is folding up an armor piece that covers up the face and ends up being basically invisible.
On the right here is an action base adapter in case you want to display it like this. I… do not. Let’s take a look at the legs.
Nothing terribly out of the ordinary here. The knees are actually needed for an even more ridiculous transformation than the Chest Flyer, but they look pretty much like the same double-jointed knees every RG has. I love the shapes and proportions of these legs, but it’s a bit of a shame that the upper thigh armor doesn’t move.
Assembly continues with the feet and the hip joints. Yes, you build the feet after the legs. What’s this world coming to? Before you know it, we’ll have dogs and cats living together.
We then proceed with the waist unit. Very standard stuff, as you can see. The side skirts open to store the Folding Razor knives. No silly German name for those, unfortunately.
Notice also the usual hinge part allowing you to lower the hip joints for extra mobility (not separately like on the Nu Gundam, unfortunately) and the bottom part of the upper torso that’s actually attached to the waist unit here because it’s where you insert the Core Splendor.
Once you’ve attached the legs to the waist unit, the whole thing transforms into this preposterous contraption called the Leg Flyer. This also comes with a fug-buttly action base adapter that you’ll see again when I complain about it below.
I didn’t transform that one knee properly, by the way. I don’t know how this happened, the knees are supposed to look like on the suit’s left leg.
The better news is how you attach the Core Splendor to all this. You open this little hatch…
…and then you insert the plane and fold it over to form the suit’s backpack. This is simple, it works well, and it actually looks good. It’s also kind of unfortunate, though, because it means the Core Splendor can’t be displayed separately unless you leave the main suit in its two “flyer” sections, which, um, you don’t want to do.
And that’s the Impulse Gundam complete.
We’re not done yet, though. First we put together the Silhouette Flyer, which is really simple.
Next is the, ahem, Force Silhouette, which distinguishes itself from the Aile Striker by having an even more nonsensical name, and… not much else. But it looks cool. You start by assembling the main fuselage.
This is followed by the wings and the beam saber handles.
And finally these stabilizers that also have little thrusters on the side that fold out.
The not-Aile Striker can be combined with the not-Skygrasper to form this plane, and that’s the one “transformation” aspect of this kit that I will say looks really kickass.
Oh yeah, and for some reason the very last thing the instructions have you assemble is the knives, so here’s an unnecessarily large picture of those.
And that’s it. To be honest, I’m really not sure why, but this build felt a lot more involved than you’d think based on the pretty standard number of parts. Maybe it’s because there’s so much different stuff or maybe because it’s just… not terribly unusual or interesting, despite the transformation gimmicks.
Anyway, we’re done with the build, and you know what that means – here’s a look at the accessories.
The hands are everything you need – two closed fists, two holding hands for the beam sabers, one trigger finger hand for the right and a holding hand for the shield on the left, and two open hands.
Here’s the rest of the accessories.
From left to right, we’ve got the shield, the two action base adapters, the Silhouette Flyer, the rifle, the knives, the pilot figure and two beam sabers.
Note the size of that action base adapter. This is the one I mentioned above – it has to be this big basically so that you can use it to mount the Leg Flyer on an action base, but the kit otherwise doesn’t come with a different one for mounting it in standard mode, which means you’ve always got this ugly contraption attached to the suit’s taint, like so.
I just really feel like if this was made from clear plastic or they had made a smaller alternate adapter, all of these pictures would look significantly better. The good news is that contrary to what you might think, you don’t actually need an action base.
Yep, it actually stands up on its own, with the Force Silhouette attached, and without having to lean forward 45 degrees. I’m really not sure how that’s physically possible, but it’s true.
I’ve always thought these Rambo knives were silly, but I will grant that you can get some neat posing out of them.
I had by far the most fun with this, though, and looking at these pics again, I’m tempted to take the kit off the shelf and pose it this way instead of with the Force Silhouette attached.
Although of course that looks good too.
Now do I recommend this kit? I’m gonna say if you’re a big fan of the Force Impulse Gundam, then yes, you should absolutely get this. Like all recent Real Grades, it’s incredibly well engineered, posable and stable. It’s really basically flawless – the only issue I had during the photoshoot was the upper torso occasionally popping off, otherwise it was really fun to work with.
At the same time, though, it just doesn’t do anything special. I’m guessing the idea was that it would be the first of the newer breed of RGs with a full-blown transformation and that’s what’s supposed to make it stand out, but frankly, the transformations are all kind of dumb, and while they don’t detract from the kit, they also don’t really add anything to it. It’s just another Real Grade, and unless you’re a fan of the design, you don’t really need this one.
Personally, I’m coming away from this build feeling a bit ambivalent about the whole thing. I certainly like the end result, but building this was kind of a chore. I used to build Real Grades because it was a throwback to years ago when I just enjoyed the simple fun of snapping together a complex kit without thinking about doing more than panel lines on it, but… I dunno, I think I may just not like that as much anymore as I thought. And I still don’t want to paint one of these because the tiny parts give me the willies.
So I don’t know what that means for the future. I still have quite a few unbuilt RGs lying around and that new Evangelion kit in the mail, so I’ll definitely have to do something with those, but I’m just not sure this thing is my thing anymore. Or maybe it’s just a phase, we’ll see. No doubt Bandai will release another engineering miracle next and I’ll have to get it.
Somehow it’s been over a year since I did my last proper painted Gunpla build, and to be honest, I was feeling the ol’ Gunpla fatigue more than a little. I actually snapped this kit together a long time ago and originally had some plans to either modify it into a space Nazi robot or something Warhammer related, but then I badly needed to do a simple and straightforward project to get myself out of the usual spring funk, so I decided to just paint it up more or less straight.
The base color scheme isn’t much different from the kit’s original colors – the dark green is Tamiya Olive Drab, the lighter green the same paint with white mixed in, and the mechanical parts and weapons are Vallejo Metal Color Gunmetal. What’s new here is that I did the preshading on the light green parts with Vallejo’s Burnt Umber, which I’ve used as a shadow color with green on miniatures before, and it worked really well here too. I also added some black trim, which mostly just reminded me that I hate masking.
The sleeves markings also didn’t work out as well as I had hoped. I’ve done this sort of thing simply by hand brushing on so many Warhammer minis at this point that I didn’t think it’d be a problem to just paint Mechanicus Standard Grey over the Nato black I’d used as a base, but Bandai’s trim is decidedly more shallow and it turned out to be a massive pain. A wash of Nuln Oil and some weathering hides most of the problems I had, but I’m not entirely satisfied.
For the shield, I couldn’t resist my usual impulse to paint it a different color to make it look like it had been replaced, so I used the same red/red brown combo I’d used on the Red Horn before and slapped a decal from the generic Unicorn waterslide sheet on it.
And finally, the tubes were painted Desert Yellow with a bit of Lemon Yellow mixed in to brighten up the color a bit.
After the gloss coat came the pin wash, and partly because Bandai plastic and white spirits don’t get along, I settled for water-based acrylic washes this time – Citadel Nuln Oil for the dark green and the gunmetal, and Agrax Earthshade for the green. This worked just fine and dandy. Purely for pin washes, I always find that water-based paints actually work quite well because the surface tension tends to make them pull into the recesses.
The first weathering step was chipping, which I did in two stages as before on the HMM Zillon. I used two different shades of green from Citadel for the first step, but truth be told, I really should have used something even lighter on the light green parts – the green chips are barely showing up. The problem here was that the gloss coat was almost too overpowering and I could barely see what I was doing. Stage two, as usual, was Tamiya Gunmetal on the lighter stuff and Chrome Silver on the darker parts, in this case just the black.
Next was streaking with Abteilung 502 Starship Filth and Dark Rust. I applied a tiny bit to the spots I wanted to have streaks running from with a toothpick, then basically drybrushed downward from there. This worked so well that I decided not to add further streaking on top with thinned-down paint, as I did on the S.A.F.S. before.
The weapons and all the other gunmetal parts got the usual treatment of a drybrush with Tamiya Chrome Silver and Gunze Rust, plus some added detail here and there with Leadbelcher. Decidedly nothing fancy, but this is honestly one of those things that work so well that I’d rather take the “don’t fix what ain’t broke” approach and just keep doing it. I also added that orange stripe to the bazooka because I have to have an orange stripe on everything. This was hand brushed on with Citadel Fire Dragon Bright, which was kind of a pain over the slick surface of the Vallejo metallic paint, but I figured the drybrushing and the topcoat would make it blend in, and… they did.
As usual, the final step was to paint the cameras with Vallejo Duraluminium, Tamiya Clear Red and my latest trick of dabbing some Citadel ‘Ardcoat on them for extra gloss. This mimicks the look of actual clear parts really well, and I’m particularly happy with how reflective the monoeye came out.
Well, and that was pretty much it, plus of course a Tamiya matt topcoat. I really didn’t do much of anything fancy with this one, but it was really fun to do, and I will say that closing up the seamlines on the legs and the round shoulder armor at least was not entirely new, but the first time I felt kind of comfortable doing that, and I think I can tackle models now that need seamline filling more badly.
I also came away from this one feeling like I need to do more HG kits – with a little love, they can look nearly as good as MGs, and they’re a lot of fun to work on because of the significantly lower parts count. There’s never a stage with these where it feels like you’re spending an entire week just basecoating inner frame parts.
Well, here’s another build that’s been a long time coming. I’ve actually had the HMM Iguan ever since it came out in 2013-ish, and the idea to paint it in the colors of the OER Zillon came soon after, but I never got around to doing it. Part of the problem was that I’d already built an HMM Godos and found the kit a bit disappointing, and I also needed a Blue Zoids emblem for the head, of which of course there was no waterslide on any kit in existence. That is, until this year’s reissue of the Godos came along, and I’m not kidding, the availability of a waterslide version of the emblem was what finally motivated me to do this one.
First I needed to adapt the color scheme. The HMM version isn’t necessarily the most amazingly detailed kit Kotobukiya has ever made, but there is quite a bit of added detail, and I needed to figure out how to make that stand out without ruining the overall color scheme. Note, for example, that the legs on the Tomy version are just one solid chunk of grey – obviously that wasn’t going to look good on the HMM kit.
Once I had decided on a color scheme, I airbrushed the parts with the base colors – Light Grey, Flat Black and Blue from Tamiya, and Duraluminium from Vallejo because I’ll be damned if I build a mecha kit without metallics.
The next step was to paint on the detail with Citadel paints – Retributor Armor for some of the gold accents, Mephiston Red and Abbaddon Black for the other stuff. If you’re beginning to notice the pattern, yeah, these are all very plain and basic colors. I also did a tiny bit of airbrush shading on the legs and some highlights on the black parts.
Then I did the subassemblies and started the chipping. I decided to try something new here and didn’t go straight for the metallics. Instead I did some initial chipping with a lighter version of the base colors – Mechanicus Standard Grey on the black and Administratum Grey on the grey parts – followed by smaller chips with Tamiya Chrome Silver and Gunze Rust. I also did a tiny bit of drybrushing here and there. You can see the two-step chipping best on the head.
Then I gloss coated everything for washes and streaking. The issue here was that it was flat-out impossible to separate the metallic from the dull parts, but I’ve found that even with a matte final topcoat, the finish of the Vallejo Metal Color paints looks different from the parts that are just several layers of matte colors on top of one another.
The washes were done with Starship Filth on the grey and Ghost Grey on the black and blue, both from Abteilung 502, as usual. Ghost Grey on black worked really well as a gunkwash on the PG Strike, but doing it as a regular wash proved to be a bit more fiddly because I had to get the thinning just right. It worked out ok, but I would’ve preferred for it to be a bit more uniform.
The streaking was done with the method I started using on the Ma.K S.A.F.S. – drybrushing first and a then a tighter streak on top with a thinned version of the same paint in some places. I kept it relatively muted this time because I just liked the way it looked after the drybrushed streaks already. Here you can also see the preshading on the leg, at least if you look closely.
The dirt on the feet was one of the last things I did after the matte topcoat – I used Tamiya pigments for this and applied them wet with a toothbrush to get this dried mud effect.
The other finishing touch was the cameras. The kit only has two actual clear parts – a light on the back and the canopy. Those are pink, so I painted them with Tamiya Clear Red on the outside and Vallejo Duraluminium on the inside. The hand painted cameras like the one seen here or on the tail guns were all done with the same paints plus a glob of Citadel ‘Ardcoat on top for a bit more glossiness.
And that was it, really, barring some drybrushed stuff here and there. As you can see in one of these pictures, the dirt on the feet was done because I really wanted to have this guy standing on the OER boxart base I created for the Red Horn. It looks pretty cool and I have them both displayed next to one another at the moment, but that doesn’t make any sense of course, so maybe I’ll create a little mini-desert base for the Zillon eventually.
The Iguan is set to be reissued in July, so if you want one, now’s the time to snap one up at a reasonable price. Personally, I can’t say I’m particularly thrilled with the kit, as happy as it makes me to see one of the original clamshell headed windups in HMM form. I will say, though, that I enjoyed recreating the OER colors on a Kotobukiya kit, so I’ll probably do more of this sort of thing. I’ve wanted to paint the Iron Kong up to look like a Gore the Lord Protector for a long time, but that’s going to be, um, a slightly more ambitious project than this little guy.
Anyway, sorry for the long radio silence, folks. I don’t need to tell you that 2020 has been a bit of a crazy year, but being shut in kind of lends itself to hobby time, so you can actually expect my first finished Gunpla since 2018 soon.
In keeping with last month’s pattern, here’s my Gatling Fox Youtube review on the last day of the month. Or, you know, the decade, if you’re not into the whole math thing. Anyway, aside from the fact that I haven’t been particularly good about writing something at least once a month lately, I also think I’m going to lose the archive widget in the sidebar soon – it’s gone from “easy access” to “kind of unwieldy” because this blog has lasted a lot longer than I thought it would. Anyway, here’s the Gatling Wrooff. It’s like Hunter Wrooff, just a bit less shitty.
Notice, of course, the B sprue center left. There are exactly two parts here – one goes inside the Core Splendor and the other one inside the chest. Honestly, I’m not sure these are even necessary, at this point it feels like they’re just including them because it’s a Real Grade and it has to have them.
RoboShop 